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Thread: top almost works right

  1. #11
    Member
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    Dec 2010
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    ohio and florida
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    Thanks, I will go at it in, August, when I get back to the car.

    Dale

  2. #12
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    Dec 2010
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    ohio and florida
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    Thanks. Today I received the June issue of The Skyliner. There was a technical question asked that was my exact top problem. In the answer, Wayne Rollins stated that there is a difference in the erect and delay switches between the 57,58 years and the 59's. The retract cycle uses a different contacts on the switch for 57. 58's than on the 59. Now I have to figure out which switch I have.I guess Mr Rollins is counting the contacts from the plunger end of the switch.

    Dale

  3. #13
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    Dec 2010
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    ohio and florida
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    Got it!

    My problem was the roof position D switch. I had set the C & D switches with a unattached lock nut when I adjusted the switches. They were set just fine. This time I checked them with the roof screws fully engaged and unengaged and found the D switch ,long plunger, was not completing the circuit when the screw was disengaged. I moved the switch down a bit and the top works just fine.
    I think that testing the switches on the car is better even if they are hard to adjust and in some switches impossible unless someone has a special tool.
    Thanks for all your help.

    Wah2oo

  4. #14
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    26
    Congratulations. All of the adjustments on the electrical switches are touchy. It is the sequencing that is difficult to adjust properly. Sounds like success.

  5. #15
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    Apr 2018
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    63
    yes colin ya got it !

  6. #16
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
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    2
    I just repaired a similar problem today. Roof would unlock, but would not retract. I found the C switch slightly loose, I removed and adjusted switch as per the Shop Manual, and its working fine now.

  7. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    103
    If the roof unlocks but will not begin retracting then measure the voltage on the small terminal of the roof retract solenoid. If there is no voltage there then it's a roof lock switch not making connection (all four have to make connection for the roof to begin retracting). However, if there is voltage there then take note of the amount. If it is under 10 volts then you have too much resistance in the circuit (going through nine switches) so you will need a Relay Assist Kit (Wayne Rollins, IFRC Technical Advisor sells these kits). If the small terminal on the roof retract solenoid measures 11 or 12 volts then either the retract solenoid is bad or the roof motor is bad. But it is very common for a roof to unlock but not begin retraction due to too much resistance through the nine switches required for the roof to initialize retraction. It shows up most in this part of the cycle because this is when the voltage has to travel through more switches than any other part of the cycle.

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