Top retract issue - advice on these 3 likely issues

I am a new owner of a very old and worn 59 retractable. Seems the top hasn't worked in some time and the car has sat for more than 15 yrs as well.

I am right in the middle of checking things, but wanted to get this thread created to seek out the advice of you experienced guys before I went too far in wasting my time looking at the wrong stuff.

My trunk lid unscrews/unlocks just fine and raise up, and the close-out panel raises up just fine. I then hear what sounds like 4 locks unlock in sequence at the 4 corners of the top - ALONG with motors churning but the top never moves an inch.
The Locks keep popping/ratcheting, it sounds like the motors are churning, but nothing else happens.

From reading other threads here, it seems that I might have either:

1. bound/tight front screws.
2. broken wire or inoperative 'A' switch.
3. bad solenoid for Top Retract. (I hadn't tested yet, as I thought that by hearing the motors churning - that the solenoid was probably working)


Thoughts?

You say you can hear the 4 lock nuts unlock. Are they indeed unlocked? Can you lift each corner by hand?

I guess that is a good question Dave! I didn't know I could do that by hand, as I just assumed the motors would make it impossible for me to do.
Thanks for the tip!

Tonight I was able to make some progress but I'm still a little stuck. I noticed the small sensor/switch for when the package tray is 'up' but since my tray had been unmounted by someone long ago, it wasn't being triggered.
Once I had that switch depressed (as if the tray were there), the Roof now finally starts to unlock and move! YAY!
Unfortunately, it appears the passenger front corner is stuck or frozen or something as that corner doesn't move. I can see the 2 rear corners raise up about 1 inch, and the drivers front corner shows a gap of about 1/2 inch but not so on the passenger side front.

I think I read an old thread here that I can manually help this out if I get behind the panels. Is that right?

Disconnect the cable from your front roof lock motor that feeds the passenger side screw at the motor. Turn the cable but hand or carefully using a drill. Hoefully the screw will turn and you can unlock the roof. If the switch functions correctly then you may be able to proceed with retracting the roof.

Attachment 151I like that idea, I hadn't thought of doing it manually. I was just now seeing if I could validate the motor with a direct 12V attached via the plug. That approach was find for the closeout panel attached to the deck-lid so I assumed it was ok here too.

On that note, I think I found the locking screw and that main drive motor you are referring to. (in the center/top of the windshield frame)
One new question came up as this plug has 4 wires instead of the expected '3' like I had at the close-out panel.

I will try it manually right now like you suggested Dave, but I'm also curious if the 'applying 12v' approach would work here also, and which wires I would do that to.
I had sprayed the screw/lock with some PB Blaster last night but it appears from todays testing that it didn't help.
The connector is partially apart by my own doing as I was trying the 'direct 12v' test I mentioned above.

*Hands-down, this site has the most difficult file hosting/attachment process I've ever come across. It's crazy. Far easier to link it from somewhere else.

http://www.media-swap.com/IMG_20130920_124133_877.jpg

Good News / Bad News.
That passenger corner still seems stuck, however, there is just enough of a gap between the roof and windshield frame that I can shine a flashlight up there while working the switch to retract the roof.

I can see a post or something turning in there, and it turns several times in both directions but no amount of cautious pushing or prying seems to set the roof free. :(

I might be about to give up. I might try a close up picture to show what is turning vs what is not. I say that because, since I've never seen these parts close up before, I wonder if something about that screw thing is a 2-piece and I'm seeing the inside post turn, but the outer screw is frozen in place and now busted. (?)

If you put power the motor it will try to turn both the left and right screws. By putting power to the motor directly you have bypassed the circuit breaker. Thus if the screw and nut are bound you may over heat the motor causing damage. That is why I have suggested trying to turn the cable by hand.

There is a nut in the windshield header that works like a ratchet. The screws should turn in until the switch is made stopping power to the motor. If the screw bottoms, the nut ratchets so as not to stall the motor.

Thanks Dave, I realize I was trying to bypass the breaker and such so I was super cautious and only barely gave it power for maybe 1/4 - 1/2 second to see if there would be movement or noise. (there was neither, so I stopped guessing) As it is, I think I applied that brief power incorrectly to the wrong side of the plug. I mistakenly thought the plug was power for the screw next to the plug since there is a circuit board or something there.

From what your're saying, I can see that it makes more sense that it might actually be the incoming power for the central motor.
It's all the same to me, my problem is the same. Both sides have something turning (like a post) but the piece that post is going into in the windshield frame is sitting at different heights on the 2 sides. Drivers side shows 1-3 threads peaking above the windshield frame, the passenger side has none sticking up from the windshield frame.

Thanks for trying to help Dave, I appreciate it!