top almost works right

I asked last summer if the roof retract and delay switches were different for 57-58 and the 59. Did not get an answer, but the two I have are configured different than the ones described in the manuals and diagrams.

Now my top works okay except for one aspect. When retracting the top all works well until the roof unlocks, Then the screws continue to turn but the top will not retract. If I raise the top an inch or two up so the screws are about two inches free of the body I can then complete the roof retraction with the top switch. Coming back up works fine except a couple of the top screws continue to ratchet until the light goes out.

Any body got any ideas? Still wonder about the erect and delay switch.

Thanks Dale

The A switch under the sail panel controls the top screws. An adjustment here might help. Might be a pinched wire as I had the same problem.

Steve

Thanks Steve, I will check the "A" switch again. The screws do not continue to turn when I get the roof to retract by the normal controls but the top will not start to retract after it unlocks until I use the solenoid to raise the top about two inches or so. Then the rest of the retract cycle works fine. I am getting very good at working the top by the solenoids I think it must be the roof B,C,D or erect and delay switches.

Dale.

I did not realize you were jumping the solenoids to operate the top to unlock. If the screws turn off when retracting the A switch is fine. If the top lockdown screws operate by the normal controls the A,B,D limit switches are fine. You need to look to the erect and delay switches. These switches are sensitive to adjustment and are located under the rear seat side panels. Make sure that there are no broken control wires that would cause the solenoid not to operate. A testing light would help here. Test for voltage to the switch when attempting to operate the top.

Unless you have been mechanically adjusting the top (lock nuts and stop bolts in the trunk) the erect and delay switches do not go out of adjustment.

I have seen though the inside of those switches if exposed to water, rust and not work. These can be taken apart and cleaned up. Watch out for the little springs inside as those are impossible to replace if lost. Some more troubleshooting is in order.

Good luck.

Thanks for the advice. However , the roof unlocks fine. The problem is it will not retract. I then jump the solenoid to start the retract and get it up about 2 or 3 inches and then it will complete the retract by the normal switch. I am with you on the erect and delay switch. As I said in another thread, I have seen two different switches as to which of the four contacts work together on the switch. It seems something is not activating the roof motor until the top is raised a bit. I just bought another erect and delay switch to see if my present one is the problem. Using a test light the contacts do work but not like the wiring diagrams show it. I am away from the car until August so will go at it again then.

Thanks Dale

Do you have the Ford manual on the wiring for the retractable top? That will tell you what sequence (top, middle, bottom) of the switch controls the top retract motor. Has your wiring been tampered with? Sometimes mechanics will rewire only to cause different problems. What year is your car as the 57 and 58 models had a right and left rear top unlock motor for each side. The 59 only had one. The retract motor (main one in trunk) will not run unless the limit switches for the rear top lock down screws are free of the top. You need to look to the erect and delay limit switch and/or wiring to solve your problem. These things are really sensitive to the adjustment a little bit either way - it won't work. A test light will do wonders in troubleshooting.

Yes,a manual and the 57 booklet on the top. The car is a 58. I use a meter on the switches and to check continuity. I will be in Florida with the car in August when I can recheck things. It seems to me it has to be in one of the four top lock/unlock switches. When I check them off the car they work correctly as to open and closed circuits. The erect and delay switch has a different configuration than in the diagrams as mentioned early in the thread. I have tried to match the incoming and out going wires to the switches and diagram but with fading and age, it is difficult to identify colors. I will try again the August. Thanks for the suggests. I will let you know what happens in August.

Thanks again Dale

Seems like you have 2 problems, different but related
If the jacks continue to operate after the roof is closed on the erect/closed cycle then the switch is not cutting the power
You say the roof opens after you "help" it a couple of inches this points to a mechanical issue
Take the panel off and see where the switch plunger is when all 4 jacks rotate freely
If its depressed slacken it off and lower it and see if roof works if you haven't enough movement "short" across the terminals and see if the roof operates
Don't forget just because the switchs work on your continuity meter or test bulb they might not work under full amps/load

Which roof switch should I test or is it all four (B,C,D, and erect and delay)? Also, the jacks do not continue to turn just the screws.

Thanks Dale

all 4 switches need to operate in order to allow the retract jacks to work. I am thinking you need an adjustment there. A little time with the wiring manual will get you there. Typically it is the erect delay switch. If you take the top header cover off you can access the B and C connectors there. Unplug the connector and see if you have continuity. The top needs to be unscrewed but not lifted from the windshield and the rear screw attachment. All switches need to work to allow the retract relay to operate. If the switches are working then look for a broken wire. Good luck on that. There is a company in the NW that makes entire wiring looms ($500.00). That is a suggestion if you still have the original. The top wires are known for problems where the front of the top folds. Usually the bad wire is hidden behind a shield that protects the wires at the pivot.

Could be a bag of worms for you.

Thanks, I will go at it in, August, when I get back to the car.

Dale

Thanks. Today I received the June issue of The Skyliner. There was a technical question asked that was my exact top problem. In the answer, Wayne Rollins stated that there is a difference in the erect and delay switches between the 57,58 years and the 59's. The retract cycle uses a different contacts on the switch for 57. 58's than on the 59. Now I have to figure out which switch I have.I guess Mr Rollins is counting the contacts from the plunger end of the switch.

Dale

My problem was the roof position D switch. I had set the C & D switches with a unattached lock nut when I adjusted the switches. They were set just fine. This time I checked them with the roof screws fully engaged and unengaged and found the D switch ,long plunger, was not completing the circuit when the screw was disengaged. I moved the switch down a bit and the top works just fine.
I think that testing the switches on the car is better even if they are hard to adjust and in some switches impossible unless someone has a special tool.
Thanks for all your help.

Wah2oo

Congratulations. All of the adjustments on the electrical switches are touchy. It is the sequencing that is difficult to adjust properly. Sounds like success.

yes colin ya got it !

I just repaired a similar problem today. Roof would unlock, but would not retract. I found the C switch slightly loose, I removed and adjusted switch as per the Shop Manual, and its working fine now.

If the roof unlocks but will not begin retracting then measure the voltage on the small terminal of the roof retract solenoid. If there is no voltage there then it's a roof lock switch not making connection (all four have to make connection for the roof to begin retracting). However, if there is voltage there then take note of the amount. If it is under 10 volts then you have too much resistance in the circuit (going through nine switches) so you will need a Relay Assist Kit (Wayne Rollins, IFRC Technical Advisor sells these kits). If the small terminal on the roof retract solenoid measures 11 or 12 volts then either the retract solenoid is bad or the roof motor is bad. But it is very common for a roof to unlock but not begin retraction due to too much resistance through the nine switches required for the roof to initialize retraction. It shows up most in this part of the cycle because this is when the voltage has to travel through more switches than any other part of the cycle.